Photograph by Addison Doty. Copyright 2009 School for Advanced Research.
Manta | Shawl | Eha ba'inne
Date: 1875-1880
Artist or Maker: Unknown
Dimensions:
145 × 104 cm (57 1/16 × 40 15/16 in.)
Medium: wool | dyes
Credit Line: Gift of Amelia Elizabeth White, 1945.
Place Made:
Zuni Pueblo, McKinley County, New Mexico, Southwest, United States, North America
Object Number: IAF.T437
Not on view
Tribal Collection Review RemarksJim Enote and Octavius Seowtewa during collection review visit June 10 and 11, 2009 (Events Record “Collection Review: Zuni Tribe, Review 2”): This is a ceremonial textile that was used as a shawl or a blanket. It is a type of textile used in many pueblos, not just Zuni. This type of textile could also have been used as a dress by stitching the vertical edges together. When made into a dress, the Zuni word for it is yadonanne. When used as a shawl or blanket, it would be called ba’inne. The word Zuni word eha means black in English. So, in the case of this piece, it would be called eha ba’inne, because it is a black shawl/blanket. In order to dye it a stable black, it would have first been dyed red, using dye made from the berries of a holly-like bush. It would then have been dyed using a dye made from the outer skins of wild black walnuts (found near Springerville, AZ). If it were just dyed with the black walnut skin dye, and not with the red dye first, it would have faded to gray when washed. This manta features red embroidery on the outer borders. The top and bottom borders are embroidered with a stepped cloud pattern.
In the past, this type of textile was worn as a shawl at specific times of the year. It could also be worn as a dress for everyday wear and also during ceremonies. In the contemporary context, this type of textile is no longer worn as everyday clothing and it is mostly used at ceremonial events. It is also worn during social events such as parades, Zuni dances at school, and at inaugurations.
In Collection(s)
Bibliography:
Pueblo Indian Textiles
- Pg. p. 68
- Fig. Plate 15
The Indian Arts Research Center, in collaboration with Native American community scholars, strives to present accurate collections records. Records may be updated as new information becomes available and is reviewed with the Native American community having cultural affinity to particular items. Please write to iarc@sarsf.org if you have questions or concerns related to the documentation.